Pangri Zampa Monastery in Thimphu, Bhutan

The people of Bhutan are great believers of Astrology. Even today, the inhabitants of the Kingdom of Bhutan can not imagine making an important decision without consulting an astrologer – be it building a house, setting up a business or choosing a life partner. Even the royalty did not dare to ignore it. The coronation of the present king was postponed for nearly two years because the court astrologers advised it. They all waited for the most auspicious time to start a new journey that would lead to a happy and prosperous kingdom. And while talking about Astrology in Bhutan, Bhutan’s most important landmark is the Pangri Zampa Monastery. It is also the Royal College of Astrology in the Kingdom, where students come to learn astrology in a 6-year course. The head astrologer of the kingdom also resides here.

History

Pangri Zamapa Monastery was founded in the early sixteenth century. Tibetian Lama Ngawang Chogyal and his son Nagi Wangchuk came to Bhutan in 1529. He built a small temple at present location o Pangri Zampa Monastery and named it Druk Phodrang which means “Castle of Dragon”. Until 1616 this temple was taken care of by his family when Zhabdrung came to Bhutan and started unifying the country by taking possession of all temples.

In another myth, 1st Zhabdrung, Ngawang Namgyal, was following a raven while going south from Tibet and this is where the raven disappeared. So, he built a house here and started residing. Later Desi Tenzin Ragbay converted it into a temple and known as Zhabdrung Lhakhang.

Inside the Monastery

Pangri Zampa Monastery is situated beside Thimphu Chuu. There is a cantilever bridge to access the monastery from the other side of the river. The main gate leads towards the actual monastery complex on the right side, while on the left, there is a large prayer wall through which the path goes to Drolma Zhingkham Lhakhang which was built by the Royal Grandmother in the 21st century and is dedicated to 21 images of Tara (Jetsun Dolma).

In front of Pangri Zampa Monastery, there is a large Cyprus tree, the national tree of Bhutan, probably the tallest and the oldest in the country, where the raven that guided Zhabdrung to this place said to disappear. So, this tree is a holy place for locals. Once you enter through the gate of Pangri Zampa Monastery and then pass between the two large prayer wheels, you will notice a butter lamp room on your left and two Lhakhangs – one at your right and one at the end of the courtyard. There is a large two-storied residential building on the far left of the courtyard where the College of Astrology students live.

Both of the Pangri Zampa Lhakhang and Zhabdrung Lhakhang are four-storied buildings. The construction of both of them is similar to other Lhakhang in Bhutan. They are simple in architecture with stone walls and a red wide-stripe on the upper part of the exterior. The roof and the spire are gilded with copper. There are small windows on all the floors except the ground floor. The windows have a wooden frame with minimal artwork.

Pangri Zampa Lhakhang

The first floor, which was once used as a storeroom, is now allocated for astrology classes. The second and third floor, that can be accessed by wooden stairs, are special chapels of Buddhist deities – Yeshe Gonpo and Palden Lhamo. The fourth floor is a sanctum and has statues of Drukpa Kagyu Lamas.

Zhabdrung Lhakhang

Zhabdrung Lhakhang was the residence of 1st Zhabdrung. The top floor was the meditation room. The statue inside was said to face the entrance once, but now it is directed towards the south. Zhabdrung Lhakhang is now a temple of offerings for the people.

How to Reach

Pangri Zampa Monastery is 8 kilometres from Thimphu. You can hire a cab from Norzin Lam and visit this place. It will take around 20 minutes to reach this place. Or you can rent a bicycle from Thimphu and reach there easily.

Entry Time / Entry Fee

There is no fixed entry time for the Monastery. I went there around nine in the morning. Usually, you will find locals mostly and rare tourists visiting the place. The locals got busy in morning prayers while the students in their red robes were roaming in the courtyard.

There is no entry fee to visit Pangri Zampa Monastery.

Nearby Attractions

• Cheri and Tango Monastery – You have to reach Dodeyna village first, another 30 minutes drive from Pangri Zampa Monastery along the river. From there you need to hike to Cheri and Tango monasteries. Each of them on a different hilltop and takes around three hours to complete the hike comfortably.
• Kabesa village and Kabesa Choki Traditional Art School – Kabesa comes in between Pangri Zampa Monastery and Dodeyna village. You can take a quick halt there to witness the rural life of Bhutan, or you can visit the Art School to see students learning painting, weaving, embroidery, tailoring and sculpturing.
• Dechenphu Lhakhang – This Lhakhang is the home of the protective deity of Bhutan. It is two kilometres away from Drolma Monastery.